Embarking on the challenging ascent of Snowdon, I received three important tips: start the journey in wet conditions and arrive when it's dry, avoid the Llanberis Path at all costs, and ensure departure prior to 8am.
As we ventured further, an hour later, we found ourselves on the vast moorland overlooking the beautiful Llyn Peris reservoir. The path ahead was teeming with hikers from diverse backgrounds, spanning different ages and ethnicities. It left me pondering a question that has likely crossed the minds of visitors exploring this untamed corner of North Wales for the past two centuries: what draws all these people to this captivating place?
The renowned poet RS Thomas was intimately acquainted with the allure of Snowdonia. He eloquently described how individuals flock to these mountains, seemingly in search of something ineffable - a forgotten paradise, a distant memory of childhood, a quest for fulfillment, an escape from reality, a sanctuary for self-discovery, an invigorating tranquility, or even the thrill of adventure. The possibilities are endless. These hills offer an abundance of experiences and so much more.
Today, half a million people stand proudly on the summit every year, the vast majority arriving between April and October. Snowdon is Britain's busiest mountain by some margin. Ithas been since the early 19th century, when the Napoleonic Wars imposed the "staycation" on ageneration of adventurers who had recently discovered the Alps.
When the novelist George Borrow set off from Llanberis with his daughter and a guide in 1843, they were "far from being the only visitors to the hill this day; groups of people, or single individuals, might be seen going up or descending the path as far as the eye could reach".
At 3,560ft, Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa in Welsh, meaning "the throne") is the highest mountain in England and Wales. This is the key to its enduring popularity. (The second-highest is Carnedd Llewelyn, a mere 70ft lower, but who's heard of it, let alone climbed it?) There are seven main paths to the summit. The Llanberis Path, which roughly follows the route of the Snowdon Mountain Railway, is one of the longest, and certainly the easiest.
The author takes a break as he cycles down the Rangers Path.
We were a team of nine old acquaintances who had come to ascend Snowdon on mountain bikes, and fundraise for a mutual friend who is terminally ill. Changing the first of many punctures beside the path, I was able to watch the extraordinary digest of British society wearily climbing the mountain. There were others using the day as a means to raise money for charity: a band of pirates walked past; three men in 1950s tea dresses and long gloves smiled demurely and Istuffed my copper coins into acollecting tin carried by two girls who were picking their way up, three-legged. I half-hoped to encounter some lads dressed like the soldiers in Carry On Up the Khyber – it was, after all, filmed on Snowdon in 1968.
A notable display of the contrasting attitudes towards outdoor ventures was witnessed when a father and son set out on an expedition. While the father was fully equipped and prepared for any challenge, akin to the legendary mountaineer Doug Scott, the son appeared in casual attire, wearing jeans and a pink T-shirt proclaiming his affinity for party girls. The sight of numerous couples carrying their essentials in Tesco bags and an elderly gentleman utilizing a red tartan shopper bag to transport the remnants of a family picnic down the mountain exemplified a wonderfully British spectacle that will remain etched in my memory.
The first documented ascent of Snowdon took place in 1639. On this historic occasion, the botanist Thomas Johnson successfully reached the summit, only to be greeted by the sight of "British Alps veiled in cloud." Another notable naturalist, Thomas Pennant, contributed greatly to the popularity of Snowdonia in the late 18th century by describing the mountain range to artists, poets, and the general public. Pennant, too, experienced the challenge of a "vast mist enveloped the whole circuit" upon reaching Snowdon's peak.
A significant ascent of Snowdon was made by Carl Gustav Carus, a German painter and physiologist, in 1844. Carus shared his disappointment at the lack of a view from the summit, remarking, "Of course, no sign of any view" in his account. In the centuries since these initial climbs, countless adventurers and nature enthusiasts have taken on the challenge of Snowdon and marveled at its unique beauty, despite occasional cloud-covered peak experiences.
I've climbed Snowdon twice before. My family came to North Wales on holiday in June 1974 when I was seven. We made sandcastles, played crazy golf and ate ice-creams, all in the rain. On the day the heavens demonstrated the full arsenal of Welsh precipitation, I followed my dad silently up Snowdon. At the top it had actually stopped raining, but cloud clung to mountain like wet cotton wool. Rounding the pyre of grey rocks at the summit, I was astonished to make out the shapes of a family enjoying a flask of coffee and biscuits. Then we set off down, still in silence. My second ascent was late on a Sunday afternoon in summer 20 years ago, at the end of a long weekend climbing the highest peaks in Scotland, England and Wales. Again, the cloud as dense as a London pea-soup fog in the 1950s.
Snowdonia National Park offers the Snowdon railway as an alternative for those who prefer not to hike to the summit. This scenic railway provides a convenient way to reach the top, saving visitors from the physical exertion of the climb.
Once at the summit, visitors can now enjoy the splendid Hafod Eryri, a recently renovated and acclaimed building that replaces the previous structures. This new award-winning facility has successfully addressed past criticisms regarding the quality of hospitality on the mountain. Unfortunately, during our visit, we were unable to experience the interior of the restored building.
Historically, the Victorian hotel stood atop Snowdon until 1935, when it was replaced by a visitor center and restaurant designed by Clough Williams-Ellis, famous for his work on Portmeirion. Over the years, this building fell into disrepair, with Prince Charles even referring to it as the "highest slum in Wales." However, following an extensive £8.5m renovation, Hafod Eryri has finally quelled centuries of public discontent.
"Don't even attempt it," said Paulo, who was waiting to greet me at the top. "It's like the evacuation of the American embassy during the fall of Saigon in there. If they're not looting the place yet, it's imminent."
Minutes later, our day was transformed. The cloud was lifting. For the first time, we could see the pyramid-shaped peak. The barren slopes, the horseshoe ridges and the moorland below all left an impression of "grandeur and desolation", as William Wordsworth once wrote.
Having pushed our bikes much of the way up, we were glad to be riding them again. Descending the Rangers Path was technically difficult. We edged along the Clogwyn Du'r Arddu cliff face on a loose path that shifted every time we touched the brakes, and down through several hairpins to Llyn Ffynnon-y-gwas. There were more mechanical failures and several crashes, but the mountains were suddenly our own.
Every year, a large number of visitors, approximately half a million, conquer the summit of Snowdon – the highest mountain in Wales. It is a popular destination that captivates adventurers with its awe-inspiring beauty and challenging trails.
The British Isles are renowned for its diverse regional variations of light, much like its dialects. From the vibrant Atlantic light on Scotland's west coast to the delicate and refined beauty of the East Anglian landscapes, each region offers a unique and enchanting luminosity. The cold light that bathes Dartmoor creates an atmosphere of mystery and foreboding, while the mountains of North Wales boast a distinctive quality that is simultaneously soothing and reminiscent of ancient legends.
Soaring above the valleys, Snowdonia's mountains create a breathtaking panorama. As the sun triumphantly breaks through the clouds, its radiance spills over the valley floor, infusing it with a moist and glistening glow. The air is thick with tranquility, evoking a sense of timelessness and hinting at the occurrence of mythical tales in this mystical realm.
In the hearts of the Welsh, Snowdonia holds a deep historical significance as a refuge against invasions throughout history, from the Romans to the Normans. The legacy of Owain Glyndwr, the last native Prince of Wales, permeates the region. Rather than a loyalty to a sovereign, the Welsh express their profound love for the land itself in their national anthem "Land of My Fathers".
Awestruck by the breathtaking vistas of lakes, forests, and majestic hills stretching towards the western horizon, I grasped the essence of Snowdonia's allure. The landscape is a vivid tapestry of diverse, vibrant hues and a symphony of sculpted mountain ridges, valleys, and tarns unfolding rhythmically. Remarkably, the entire expanse of this captivating terrain could be contained within a single Alpine valley.
Ascending once more, we traversed the Maesgwm pass, descending into a pristine valley shaped by ancient glaciers. Despite one final delightful descent awaiting us, we found ourselves reluctant to depart from the idyllic hillside. It was only when the setting sun cast an enchanting orange glow upon Snowdon that we reluctantly acknowledged the close of the day and proceeded to make our way back to Llanberis.
Key Details
The notable Pen-Y-Gwryd Hotel, located in Nant Gwynant, Gwynedd, situated in the heartland of North Wales, can be contacted at 01286 870211. It provides accommodation options with 15 spacious double rooms. The room tariffs commence at £40 per individual, per night, inclusive of bed and breakfast services. For more details, visit pyg.co.uk.
In an update printed in the Observer's Clarification column on Sunday, May 8, 2011, an earlier stated Welsh name interpretation for Snowdon as "the throne" was rectified. The correct translation of Yr Wyddfa is indeed "tumulus" or "burial mound". This name possibly stems from a legend involving the construction of a cairn over the mythical giant Rhitta Gawr, who succumbed in a battle against King Arthur.