We journeyed to Skyhouse amidst the fury of winter, the murky mist and relentless rain blurring our vision. However, a pleasant surprise awaited us the next morning. It felt as though we had transitioned to the dawn of spring. From the broad expanse of our room's sliding glass doors, the perfectly named Skyhouse became apparent as we gazed upon a magnificent view filled primarily with the blue cloak of sky, sprinkled with the rustic charm of rooftops and lush green mounds.
Perched atop the Cuilfail Hill, Skyhouse offers a stunning overview of Lewes. This town is notorious for its unwavering dedication to preserving the environment and promoting sustainable living, identified as a Transition Town. In this progressive community, Skyhouse stands out as a pioneer, being the first eco-friendly, high-standard, pre-fabricated dwelling in the region, a masterpiece meticulously assembled within four days from parts imported from Germany. However, the quick assembly was preceded by months of land preparation, involving the demolition of an old 1930s resident and extensive carving into the chalk-infused hillocks. This unique formation around the rear of the property can be seen from one of the bedrooms, asserting a sense of rawness and authenticity.
Amy Burgess, the American proprietor who relinquished her sprawling 45-acre ranch in tranquil Colorado for a fresh beginning in Lewes, says, "It is a beautiful reminder of our location and infuses a sense of closeness to Mother Nature."
Burgess has a history of running a global consulting firm, which provides a glimpse into the assertive spirit that guided her path from a successful business maven to a pursuer of an ecologically sound dream home. Diverging from the norm, she relentlessly searched for months to find non-toxic sealants and adhesives, aiming to make her dwelling's interiors as environmentally friendly as the exteriors, contributing to a wholly healthier living environment.
As someone who can always see the glass half full, Burgess is firm in her belief that our society is poised for a shift towards a more eco-conscious lifestyle, notwithstanding the dismissive stance of major political forces. In anticipation of this eco-transition, she has transformed her property to be carbon-neutral. Ensuring minimum ecological impact, her yard is outfitted with solar panels, an energy-efficient pellet boiler provides underfloor heating, and the walls are insulated with recycled sawdust.
These eco-conscious elements are skillfully integrated and largely concealed. Having experiences of living in a seemingly antiquated, small Victorian terrace house, we were quite taken in with the smooth functioning of every little aspect of her eco home: there's an understated elegance in the soft shutting of doors, the serene way shutters open and close silently at the gentle touch of a compact remote control. The interior elements were not just visually appealing, but also tactilely delightful, like the polished lime plaster wall curving towards the guest rooms, almost inviting you to touch its smooth surface. These meticulous touches make Burgess’s eco home uniquely comfortable and luxurious while ensuring it remains an epitome of ‘green’ living.
The Skyhouse in Lewes, East Sussex, isn't your normal bed and breakfast experience. With tranquillity swaddled by an adults-only rule, the atmosphere proffers an abundance of soothing vibes. The added bonuses of luxury, such as in-room massages that leave guests utterly unperturbed, add to the charm. These treatments were so superbly relaxing that I needed coaxing to get off the couch and head out for dinner. Making the effort paid dividends - dinner was at the charismatic Ram at Firle, a charming establishment just a short, 10-minute drive away. With sepia-hued, low-ceiling rooms, welcoming fireside warmth, luminescent oil-wick candles, mouthwatering cuisine, and an amiable staff that go beyond the call of duty, it was indeed an irresistible experience.
Although constructed by German architects, the interior aesthetics of Skyhouse showcase a keen interest in Oriental art. The living room is adorned with regal Chinese artefacts and furniture to create an interesting cultural fusion. With the change of seasons, the modern-looking steel, wood, and glass exterior of the Skyhouse is set to bloom with a beautiful assortment of flora, further enhancing its charm. Imagine savouring a hearty breakfast on the terrace with these colourful sights, given fair weather. But, don't mistake the Skyhouse for lacking in greenery - it is surrounded by the soothing symphony of nature. The property conveniently borders the picturesque downlands, while Glyndebourne, the renowned venue of the opera festival, is just a peaceful two-mile ramble away, immersed in the beauty of the surrounding countryside.
Waking up to blue sky, we felt a walk was in order, but needed breakfast first. The healthy ethos extends to the food, a choice of “smoothie bowls” pre-ordered on booking. My “red” bowl of yoghurt and fruit purée – topped with rows of strawberries, blueberries, bee pollen, chia seeds, pomegranate and cocoa-covered goji berries – was the prettiest bowl of food I’ve ever eaten and probably held more goodness than I usually have in an entire day. My partner opted for the goodness of a cooked breakfast. Two giant loaves of sourdough were on standby in case we were still hungry.
Then it was out on to the downs where we immediately stumbled across the town’s obelisk, a stone monument to the 17 protestant martyrs burned at the stake in the mid-16th century – they are commemorated today in the town’s famous Guy Fawkes night celebrations, when tar barrels, flaming crosses and a giant bonfire draw crowds of up to 80,000.
There were no signs of fire on our Sunday stroll down Cliffe High Street later that morning, just the whiff of middle-class hippiedom in the stylish gift shops, antique emporiums and smart delis (there’s a branch of Bill’s here). Standing proud on the bank of the river Ouse is Harveys brewery and shop. Given Lewes’s thriving indie shops and restaurants, countryside and coast on the doorstep, it’s small wonder Londoners are moving here in droves. We didn’t want to leave.
Accommodation was provided by Skyhouse (Cuilfail, Lewes, 07468 691860, skyhousesussex.com) doubles from £150 B&B, minimum two-night stay at weekends, no under-12s, 10% discount if you arrive by public transport
Ask a local: Mark Greco, artist and illustrator
Experience the charm of Lewes by visiting the popular Lewes Arms, a friendly tavern known for its exquisite Harveys ales. Another favoured pub is the Swan in Southover, providing a sociable and welcoming atmosphere. Don't miss out on these two delightful establishments!
Shop
Follow the locals to Cliffe High Street, home to Leadbetter and Good that boasts a stunning array of homewares and garden objects carefully curated. Enthusiasts of quality apparel should visit Paul Clark’s menswear store, which has a well-deserved reputation for style and sophistication, and comes highly recommended by the ladies too.
Explore
Get lost in the mysterious flint-walled alleyways, or 'twittens', that wind between hidden homes and enchanted gardens in this Sussex town. Be sure to look for the Round House in Pipe Passage, a haven owned by Virginia Woolf, captivating with its historical charm. While you're immersing in this magical realm, consider extending your stay to further explore and experience the tranquility, charm, and history. Luckily, there are numerous spa hotels in East Sussex that combine luxurious indulgence with the seeming timelessness of this unique destination. Rest in comfort after a day of discoveries and let these havens of relaxation amplify your wonderful holiday.
Drink
Enjoy a local Harveys ale at the vibrant Lewes Arms or at the homely Swan in Southover. These establishments are local favourites, and for good reason!
Eat
Fuel up at the artisan cafes in Lewes. Enjoy a bite at the cosy Needlemakers, a unique cafe set in a repurposed factory, or savour delectable baked goods at the Flint Owl Bakery. For lovely lunches, Buttercup Cafe is an excellent choice, and those in the mood for spicy cuisine should visit Chaula’s Indian buffet lunch.
Walk
For nature lovers, a visit to the local reserves managed by Sussex Wildlife Trust should not be missed. Discover Malling Down, a haven for chalkland butterflies that come alive in late spring.