As the van journeyed northwards into the breathtaking Laurentian Mountains of Quebec, pockets of mist delicately clung to the majestic peaks while the temperature maintained a pleasant 60 degrees Fahrenheit. In the company of my dear friend Tia, we eagerly made our way towards the starting point of our adventure on Le P’tit Train du Nord. Our ambitious goal was to conquer 124 miles over the course of three days, propelled solely by our own strength as we pedaled on bicycles along the trail, formerly known as "the little Northern train," that conveyed 19th-century travelers to the mountains from Montreal. Today, serving as a testament to its historical origins and cherished allure, this former railway path has been transformed into a vibrant recreational trail, beckoning a staggering half a million hikers and cyclists annually.
This extraordinary journey invited us to embrace the natural splendor of the Laurentians and immerse ourselves in the vibrant colors and fragrances of the Quebecois wilderness. We traversed mesmerizing landscapes, each bend in the path revealing a vista more awe-inspiring than the previous one. As we pedaled along Le P’tit Train du Nord, our spirits were lifted by the knowledge that countless eager adventurers had embarked on this very path before us, seeking solace and inspiration amidst the untouched beauty of these mountains.
If you're looking for an exhilarating biking experience without any daunting hills, then the biking route in the Laurentians region of Quebec is just what you need. With only a few gentle uphill slopes, this picturesque route offers both beauty and convenience, as it is always within reach of various amenities and civilization.
Cycling through more than a dozen towns and villages in the Laurentians, you'll have plenty of opportunities to indulge in the finest French cuisine at renowned restaurants, explore charming shops, and relax in quaint cafes. Don't miss the chance to try some authentic French-Canadian food at the local casse-croûtes, where you can savor delicacies like smoked-meat sandwiches and poutine, a delectable combination of French fries, white cheddar cheese curds, and savory gravy. This mouthwatering dish is often humorously referred to by locals as "a heart attack in a bowl."
As we surveyed the majestic mountains before us, a mix of excitement and apprehension swirled within. The close proximity of the trail to these peaks fueled our uncertainty. Joining us on this adventure were Stéphane Larouche, a diligent graduate student specializing in engineering physics from Montreal, and his sister Annick, hailing from the idyllic town of Ste.-Luce in Quebec.
After a long day of hiking and exploration, our thoughts turned to finding comfortable accommodations for the night. If you plan to visit Montreal, consider exploring hotel deals in Montreal on www.quebechotels.info. This will allow you to relax and rejuvenate for the next leg of your adventure.
The mystery of what lay ahead was resolved to some extent when Mr. Larouche, equipped with his trusty trail map, pointed out an intriguing historical tidbit – this particular route had once been traversed by trains. Armed with this knowledge, he confidently declared that the trail couldn't possibly have any steep hills. His conviction was unwavering as he asserted that the maximum slope gradient would be a modest 4 degrees.
With our newfound assurance, we embarked on our biking expedition, eagerly anticipating the enchanting landscapes and adrenaline-inducing moments that awaited us on this trail.
Starting our cycling journey in the logging town of Mont-Laurier, we embarked on a picturesque route towards the Montreal suburb of St.-Jérôme. The pleasantly warm Thursday set the tone for an exciting adventure that would culminate in reaching our destination on Saturday. Throughout our trip, we were fortunate to have our luggage effortlessly transported from one charming bed-and-breakfast to another, allowing us to focus solely on the beauty of the trail.
Observing the enthusiastic Larouche siblings swiftly donning their biking gear and venturing into the distance, we soon realized that our backpacks were overly burdened. Learning from our initial mistake, we discovered that the abundant restaurants along the way negated the need for sandwiches and energy bars. Additionally, we gradually shed unnecessary items such as sunscreen, bug spray, and a broken bike lock, streamlining our journey for a more enjoyable experience. Gazing admiringly at fellow cyclists zooming past us, their efficient panniers in tow, we made a mental note to consider such conveniences in the future.
As we pedaled through the mountains of Quebec, we were embraced by breathtaking scenery. Our journey took us past charming lumber mills, picturesque pastures where cows grazed peacefully, and quaint houses topped with steep metal roofs. The majestic peaks of the Laurentians stretched towards the east, creating a stunning backdrop for our adventure.
Every twist and turn revealed a mesmerizing electric blue lake, a tranquil oasis that seemed to welcome us at every corner. The rivers, alive with whitewater, invited kayakers to dip their paddles while nearby picnickers enjoyed the idyllic riverside setting. The path itself was adorned with a delightful array of wildflowers, creating a vibrant pathway in shades of white, yellow, and purple.
As we cycled further, the radiant sunlight occasionally gave way to a refreshing stretch of aromatic pine forest, a gentle reminder that we were indeed exploring the enchanting north country.
As we pedaled along the trail, exchanging cheerful greetings with fellow bikers heading north, we took a moment to catch our breath at one of the charming wooden shelters dotted along the way. Our rest stop provided the perfect opportunity to chat with Hugo Leonard, who had ventured out for an afternoon of in-line skating. Hugo shared that he had chosen to settle in the picturesque village of Val-Barrette, a tranquil escape from the bustling city life of Montreal. "I can't imagine a better place to spend the rest of my days," he uttered nostalgically, while we couldn't help but understand his sentiment.
Steeped in history, the P’tit Train du Nord railroad was first completed in 1909, serving as an enticement for Montrealers to venture north into the magnificent Laurentian forests to work in the thriving lumber industry. In the 1930s, the very same railroad played a pivotal role in the rise of Laurentian tourism, facilitating the transport of eager travelers from the city to some of North America's earliest ski resorts. However, following a decline in ridership during the mid-20th century, the railway was ultimately abandoned in 1989.
Fortunately, in 1996, recognizing the immense potential for tourism in the Laurentians, the federal and provincial governments embarked on a transformative endeavor. A noteworthy investment of $14 million was allocated to remove the tracks and convert the abandoned railway into a scenic trail, beckoning bikers, hikers, and cross-country skiers to explore its enchanting surroundings.
The stations along the Le P’tit Train du Nord trail have undergone renovations, with some now featuring attached restaurants. One station, located in Labelle, even boasts a charming small museum as well as a cozy bed-and-breakfast. The trail itself offers a mix of paved asphalt sections and packed earth, ensuring a comfortable biking experience. Additionally, convenient dry pit toilets housed in quaint wooden sheds can be found between the stations, maintained to a high standard.
As we reached the 36-mile mark of our journey, the idyllic shores of Lac Nominingue welcomed us and we dismounted our bikes at the Villa Bellerive, our first B&B. Our bags were already waiting for us in the lobby, and after admiring the stunning lake view, we treated ourselves to a delightful meal at the inn's dining room. The rabbit in dijonnaise sauce paired with a heavenly raspberry-chocolate cake made for a memorable dinner as we relaxed and marvelled at the captivating sunset over the tranquil waters of Lac Nominingue.
The next day, after buying bags for the backs of our bikes to replace the loathsome backpacks, we set out later than we had planned — with 46 miles to pedal, the longest leg of our three-day journey. Traffic on the trail had picked up. There were gray-haired couples on bicycles, 20-somethings whizzing by on in-line skates and families with young children both walking and biking.
Eric McGee from Rosemere, Quebec, sat at a picnic table in the shade at L’Annonciation station, eating his lunch and staring at his BlackBerry. He was nearing the end of a seven-day round trip on the P’tit Train du Nord that he’d begun with his wife, Dominique, and two children, Guillaume, 7, and Julianne, 5. Dominique and Guillaume had had to leave early; he was on his way to St.-Jérôme with Julianne, who traveled in a sidecar attached to her father’s bicycle.
According to Mr. McGee, who operates a computer services company alongside his wife, this marks their second year embarking on this adventurous journey at the mountains of Quebec. It appears that their children were so fond of the experience that they eagerly requested a repeat.
While situated in Mont-Tremblant, away from the resort itself, we couldn't resist the allure of Lac Mercier's azure waters. As the afternoon waned, we took a well-deserved swim before heading to St.-Jovite for an early dinner. With a few hours of daylight still in our favor, we resumed our expedition and were soon confronted with an elongated uphill incline that, despite initially appearing harmless on the map, left us reevaluating our planned trip to Mount Everest next year.
With darkness descending, we were pedaling intently, beset by mosquitoes, when, by prior arrangement, our rescuer appeared. Bruno Jarry, proprietor of Gite La Bonne Adresse, the B&B in St.-Faustin-Lac-Carré, where we were booked that night, met us at the trail, piled our bikes into his Nissan van and drove us the rest of the way.
The inn, built in 1890 and beautifully restored, has served as a post office, bus terminal and dance hall. Mr. Jarry gave us a tour, and his wife, Florence, sent us off the next morning after a bountiful breakfast.
DAY 3, Saturday, was busy on the P’tit Train du Nord, and we had 42 miles to cover. In Val-David, packed with art galleries, shops, restaurants and an outdoor market, we stopped briefly to share an almond croissant and a brownie at La Vagabonde, a bakery known as one of the region’s best.
A few hours later, south of the Ste.-Adèle train station, the trail was bumper-to-bumper with cyclists gazing out at the North River. Each glimpse offered views of water dancing over boulders or fields baking under a glaring sun, but the traffic was so intense that I was reminded of the Garden State Parkway in New Jersey. I tailgated while cursing under my breath. Although I longed to stop and rest, every picnic table overlooking the river was occupied.
But as we rolled into St.-Jérôme about 3:30 that afternoon, passing under the arch that marks the southern end of Le P’tit Train du Nord, annoyances faded from memory, replaced by a feeling of triumph.
I realized that I might never find another trail as perfect as this. Unless, of course, it is all downhill.
VISITOR INFORMATION
THE Laurentians tourism office (450-224-7007) provides information and maps of the P’tit Train du Nord and will help you organize your trip and make reservations at bed-and-breakfasts. You can also find information and maps of the trail at www.laurentides.com (click on “Linear Parks”).
Transport du Parc Linéaire Le P’tit Train du Nord in St.-Jérôme (450-569-5596; www.transportduparclineaire.com) charges 40 Canadian dollars a person (about $37 at 1.07 Canadian dollars to the U.S. dollar) for the trip from St.-Jérôme to Mont-Laurier. Luggage transport costs 12 dollars daily per piece. The company also sells trail passes — 5 Canadian dollars for a day or 15 dollars for a season — and will arrange for bicycle rentals (56 Canadian dollars for three days for a hybrid).
Villa Bellerive (1596 Chemin Bellerive-sur-le-Lac, Nominingue; 819-278-3802; www.villabellerive.com) has rooms for two at 80 to 140 dollars, not including meals. With breakfast and dinner, rooms are 138 to 198 Canadian dollars for two.