Melbourne may have been knocked off its perch as the world's most livable city, but that hasn't dampened the spirit of its residents. Despite the challenges that come with its popularity, Melbourne continues to be a vibrant hub of culture and creativity in Australia. From a multitude of festivals that bring the city to life, to a thriving restaurant scene that pushes boundaries, Melbourne offers a diverse and enriching experience for locals and visitors alike.
One exciting development on the horizon is the National Gallery of Victoria's ambitious plan to construct Australia's largest contemporary art gallery by 2025. This expansion will further solidify Melbourne's position as a cultural powerhouse, attracting art enthusiasts from around the globe. Additionally, the city boasts beautiful Victorian-era parks, perfect for relaxing and enjoying the famously sunny Melbourne weather.
36 Hours in Melbourne
Friday
1) 4 p.m. Coastal Vibes
Nestled on the peaceful Port Phillip Bay, Melbourne's seaside hub, St. Kilda, offers a unique beach experience that is sure to intrigue. With scenic palm-dotted beaches and adventurous kite-surfers ever in action, it's not quite Sydney's surf culture, yet offers a similar vibe. Begin your journey with a leisurely walk down Acland Street, a treasure trove of delightful old-fashioned pastry shops. There you'll find the famed Monarch Cakes, an 85-year-old institution renowned for its chocolate kugelhopf, crafted using an age-old recipe originating from the café's inception. Another must-visit is the Europa Cake Shop, famous for their exquisite poppy seed cheesecake and their gluten-free orange cake. Following the sweet indulgence, take the opportunity for a beach break. Whether taking a refreshing bath in the bay or simply lounging on the sandy beach, the choice is yours. And, if the weather doesn't play along, consider taking refuge at Pontoon, a chic bar complete with an outside deck just a stone's throw from the beach. Enjoy a thirst-quenching Stomping Ground pale ale, locally brewed in Melbourne (14 Australian dollars, or roughly $10), all while observing the lively crowd of tattooed, sun-kissed beach wanderers that pace by.
2) A Sizzling Barbecue Experience
Immerse yourself in the enticing aroma of crackling firewood and smoky goodness as you step inside Matilda, a culinary gem in Melbourne established by renowned chef Scott Pickett in June last year. Enthusiasts of traditional cooking methods will be delighted to find that Matilda's kitchen is devoid of gas stoves, instead boasting an array of cooking options including an offset smoker, wood-fired oven, rotisserie, and fire pits. Complementing this wood-fired focus is a menu brimming with native Australian ingredients, such as the tantalizing grilled baby barramundi generously garnished with a grenobloise featuring salt bush, desert lime, and lemon myrtle (priced at 44 dollars). Meanwhile, those seeking a hearty carnivorous feast shouldn't miss the grilled 21-day-aged Tasmanian porterhouse accompanied by a delectable macadamia romesco sauce (available for 49 dollars). Concluding the fiery affair with flair, the Pink Lady apple tarte Tatin (priced at 22 dollars) is baked to perfection, with an added twist of gently smoked vanilla ice cream on the side.
Are you a fan of flame-kissed flavors? Swing by Matilda and indulge your taste buds with their unique fire-cooked creations that pay homage to indigenous Australian ingredients. As you relish the tantalizing dishes, take a moment to appreciate the dedication and expertise of Chef Scott Pickett, whose vision has brought this exceptional culinary experience to life. Embrace the inviting ambiance, experience the subtle nuances of wood-fired cooking, and allow Matilda to transport you on a delectable journey celebrating the rich flavors of Melbourne's native cuisine.
3) 9 p.m. Bayside beats
Built in 1878, the opulent, bayfront Hotel Esplanade was the epicenter of society life in St. Kilda’s early days. The philanthropist Alfred Felton, a major benefactor of the National Gallery of Victoria, lived here for over a decade until his death in 1904, and throughout the 20th century, the hotel was a premier music venue, hosting everything from jazz and big band performances to disco nights. After falling into disrepair, the Esplanade (called “the Espy” for short) underwent an 18-month renovation and reopened in November to play music once again. There are now three stages in the sprawling complex — including one in the hotel’s ballroom, the Gershwin Room — and a full slate of events every weekend, ranging from up-and-coming Australian bands to more conceptual performance art shows. Upcoming shows include Sun Kil Moon (May 15) and Sydney singer Ruby Fields (May 28 to 30).
Saturday
4) 8:30 a.m. Beyond flat whites
Melbourne is an early-rising town, which is not surprising for a city that prides itself on its coffee. And when it comes to coffee, Seven Seeds, a roaster and cafe in a converted warehouse space just north of downtown, is brewing some of the best in the city. The cafe sources its beans directly from growers on scouting trips to places like Ethiopia, Guatemala and the Bolivian Andes and recently started publishing the “farmgate price” paid to growers in an aim for greater transparency. The filtered cold brews (5 dollars) are fantastic, served with cocktail-style blocks of ice, and the breakfast menu features standouts like crab scrambled eggs topped with a Sichuan pepper caramel sauce and cilantro and mint salad (24 dollars). Public tasting sessions are also frequently held on Saturday mornings to demonstrate the baristas’ brewing techniques.
5) Delight in Melbourne's Vibrant Queen Victoria Market
Immerse yourself in the treasure trove of sights, sounds, and flavors that await you at the Queen Victoria Market, affectionately known as the "Queen Vic." This iconic open-air market, boasting a rich historical legacy spanning over 140 years, was recognized as a significant cultural landmark on Australia's National Heritage List in 2020.
Take a leisurely stroll through the bustling market, brimming with an array of stalls showcasing the freshest produce, delectable meats, succulent fish, and an assortment of dairy. Indulge in Melbourne's diverse culinary offerings, whether it's savoring lamb, mint, and rosemary sausages, or exploring the exotic Australian bush herbs, macadamia dukkah, and the wide selection of local cheeses and sourdough breads.
For a quick snack, be sure to stop by The Mussel Pot, a beloved market eatery, where you can relish a bowl of steaming, freshly cooked mussels (starting from 11 dollars). If you find yourself in Melbourne during the week, don't miss the lively night market held on Wednesday evenings throughout both summer and winter seasons, featuring even more captivating food and entertainment options.
Engage all your senses as you discover the vibrant atmosphere and culinary delights that make the Queen Victoria Market a must-visit destination when exploring Melbourne.
6) 1 p.m. History lesson
As far as origin stories go, few are as slickly produced as the tale of Melbourne’s beginnings at the Melbourne Museum (adults 15 dollars, children free). The extensive, interactive exhibition first takes visitors through the history of the original Aboriginal inhabitants of the region and details the devastating impact of the arrival of Europeans in 1835: Their numbers were decimated by disease, and their lands stolen. The story then continues through Melbourne’s early days as a gunslinging gold rush town and tracks its phenomenal growth in more recent years. Two other highlights: the Wild exhibition, which details how a menagerie of more than 600 animals has been impacted by climate change; and the gorgeous Forest Gallery, a canopied woodland of tree ferns, gum trees and other native plants, populated by the birds and fish that have always called this part of Australia home.
7) 3 p.m. Design district
The once-working class neighborhood Fitzroy is now the go-to spot in Melbourne for local designers. There are well-known Australian fashion labels to be found here, such as Kloke and Handsom, as well as Mud Australia, a maker of brightly colored porcelain. But independent designers have a space, too. Uscha stocks Japanese-inspired ceramics, woodwork and leather items made by local artists, while Third Drawer Down partners with established and emerging artists on exclusive designs for everyday items like mugs, tote bags and homewares. At Design a Space, more than 80 local clothing designers rent racks to display their creations, keeping 90 percent of profits from sales. And the weekly Rose St. Artists’ Market features more artists, designers, bakers and organic farmers, peddling their wares in a former junkyard.
8) 6 p.m. Approachable wines
As Melbourne’s eating and dining scene has matured in recent years, one chef in particular has been at the forefront: Andrew McConnell, who now counts a stable of nine venues to his name. Opened in late 2015, the wine bar Marion has been one of the most popular because of its eclectic wine menu — categories range from skin-contact whites to “Everything in Moderation, including Moderation” reds (mainly easy-drinking reds) — as well as the delicious, well-priced bar food. The chef’s selection (65 dollars a person) offers a sampling of the greatest hits, among them the Hiramasa kingfish topped with preserved orange peel, pickled fennel, Espelette pepper, fennel pollen and flowers; and grilled cuttlefish with burned spring onion dressing, radish, fennel and fried curry leaves. A curious side note: a few window seats overlook the brick alley known as Deadman’s Lane, so named for the bodies that ended up here — either drunk or dead — during Fitzroy’s gangland days in the early 1900s.
9) 9 p.m. Dive into the Aussie Craft Distilling Wave
Seb Costello, the mind behind the flourishing Fitzroy cocktail bar Bad Frankie, is a connoisseur of Australia's spirited and evergrowing craft distillation movement. Drawing its inspiration from Sir John Franklin — a former governor infamous for prohibiting small-batch distilling in Van Diemen's Land (presently known as Tasmania) in the bygone days of the 19th century, Bad Frankie stands as a testament to the contemporary excellence in Australian spirit production. The offerings boast an enticing variety of over half a thousand local beverages such as gins, whiskies, vodkas, and even less recognized liquors such as South Australian rakia and absinthes from Tasmania. Costello's Australian pride permeates through every aspect of the bar, from the chosen delicacies in the form of Jaffles - traditional toasted Australian sandwiches, right down to the nostalgic wallpaper adorned with print photos of old-fashioned Australia, some in fact, taken from his personal family archives.
Sunday
10) 9 a.m. Cycling Adventure
Exploring Melbourne, a vast metropolitan expanse, allows for a surprisingly refreshing glimpse into the serene Australian outback. Beginning your adventure on the charming Main Yarra Trail is simpler than anticipated, as it meanders over 20 miles alongside the peaceful Yarra River. For this venture, consider securing a bike rental capable of navigating gentle slopes; check out Freddy’s Bike Tours & Rentals which offers road bikes for 30 Australian dollars per half day. You begin weaving through the city's heartbeat, then move past the antique boathouses beautifully adorning Alexandra Gardens (which are still utilized by weekend oarsmen). The trail proceeds to spiral around South Yarra, culminating at the Abbotsford Convent — currently serving as an artistic hub brimming with artist workshops, eating joints, and hosting a monthly farmers market. The trail provides an easy ride, enjoying the cover of gum trees and offers picturesque riverside views. With a bit of good fortune, you may also have a delightful encounter with a playful platypus in the Yarra.
11) 11 a.m. Grazing meal
After your ride, spend an afternoon at the farm. Next to the convent, the Collingwood Children’s Farm (adults 12 dollars, children 7 dollars) is a 40-year-old nonprofit institution that’s home to a menagerie of animals (Berkshire pigs, Anglo Nubian goats, to mention a few) on just under 10 acres of pastureland. Children can get up close and personal with the animals by joining farmers on the twice-daily feed walks, brushing the cows or petting the resident guinea pigs. Afterward, sit down to a leisurely breakfast at the Farm Café, a breezy, flower-filled restaurant with a farm-to-table menu featuring grilled South Australian sardines with ricotta, olives and heirloom tomatoes on toast (21 dollars) and slow-cooked beef meatballs with house-made labne and tabbouleh (21 dollars). The view of the cows and chickens says it all about Melbourne — this really is the good life.
Lodging
Once a criminal haunt in the 1930s, Fitzroy is now one of the city’s most fashionable corners. It is also conveniently located: Several tram lines offer easy access to the central business district, South Melbourne and St. Kilda. There are plenty of converted loft apartments and former worker cottages available on Airbnb for around 100 to 150 Australian dollars a night. However, if you are looking for more luxurious options, you can browse through Victorian 5-Star accommodations at https://www.hotelsinvictoria.net/en/5-stars/.
Is it a hotel or a gallery, or both? The Olsen Hotel (637-641 Chapel Street, South Yarra, artserieshotels.com.au/olsen/), a 224-room property in South Yarra, is dedicated to the 91-year-old landscape artist, John Olsen, one of Australia’s most accomplished painters, with his works scattered throughout. Doubles from 185 dollars a night.
Set above Matilda, United Places Botanic Gardens (157 Domain Road, South Yarra; unitedplaces.com.au) is a rarity in Melbourne — an upscale, 12-suite boutique hotel with designer touches, including custom-made brass lighting, locally made ceramics and artworks, and furnishings by the Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola. Doubles from 650 dollars a night.
If you are still unable to make up your mind about your lodgings and are looking for more options, you can visit tophotels.com to explore the best hotels in Australia, covering a wide range of prices and styles. Whether you prefer modern minimalism or opulent historical settings, there's a perfect match for every taste and budget.